Peponi Campsite S5 17 11.5 E39 03 54.2
http://www.peponiresort.com/
Travelled: 201km
Debbie: We arrived at Peponi and immediately liked the place. Dennis, the owner, knew Kokstad well as he used to do his shopping there (I forgot where he said he lived but I think it was in the Transkei). We got one of the best camp spots RIGHT on the beach (camp # K). Dennis has been very clever in his camp design as everyone has their allocated spot so you don’t feel like you are on top of each other. We had our own little thatch cover in case of rain, electricity, hot showers, clean flush loo’s and a Dhow. The beach is not white sand and blue blue sea but there are no beach boys in sight and the water is very warm so we couldn’t ask for more.
Day 85 (18/08/08) Peponi
Debbie: We went out in the Dhow today to supposedly snorkel with Sam and Sarah (NZ couple we met in Malindi who also ended up at Peponi). Sam and Andrew were well armed with fishing gear and the captain soon got the message that they were there to fish! After quite a few hours we realised that there were not many fish in this sea as only Andrew had caught a small funny looking fish. We were so hoping for a big fish as we wanted a fish braai. After we got back to camp we went to the next door camp which is self catering cottages to visit their shop for some bread and we were delighted to see that they sell prawns, calamari and fish by the KG – and cheap! They also sell everything else you could need from butter to bacon and eggs so it looks like we could be staying here for a while!
Day 86 and Day 87 (19/08/08 – 20/08/08) Peponi
Debbie: 2 more days spent at Peponi eating fresh fish, prawns and calamari and doing very little. Life is good!
Day 89 (21/08/08) Peponi to Dar es Salaam
Sunrise Beach Camping
Travelled: 377km
Debbie: We left Peponi today and continued down the coast to Dar es Salaam. The road was good all the way down – tarmac – so we could average 60km per hour! We were told the police trap like crazy here so we watched our speed in villages as we were not in the mood for a hefty fine. In Dar we had to cross from the South bank to the North on a very dodge looking ferry but we made it across in one piece. Sunrise Beach Campsite is quite nice although a lot more busy than what Peponi was as there are a few resorts around. We were admiring the view just now when we spotted 2 very tanned sugar mommy’s and their local boyfriends ...
Day 90 and Day 91 (22/08/08 – 23/08/08)
Sunrise Beach Camping
Debbie: We spent 2 days in Dar stocking up on supplies and getting some snorkelling gear. When we were not in the city we were on Sunrise Beach looking at the sights which got funnier after each beer. We tried to find the rugby (RSA vrs Auzzies) as Sam and Sarah were keen for some friendly rivalry but rugby wasn’t a big thing around these parts. Sunrise beach is ok but very noisy with loud and live local music on a Saturday night which plays from sunset to sunrise.
Day 92 and Day 93 (24/08/08 – 25/08/08) Dar es Salaam to Kilwa
Kilwa Sea View Lodge (Camping)
Kilwa Dreams S8 53 53.4 E39 31 05.143 28.7
Travelled: 330km
Debbie: We left Dar and made our way on a relatively good road (only 60km of dirt) down to Kilwa. We were first going to camp on a stunning beach at Kilwa Dreams but the owner wanted us to pay US$15 per person per night for our camp spot, a not so great loo and shower and we didn’t feel it was worth it. We moved onto Kilwa Sea View Lodge where they had a campsite (US5 per person per night) which was sheltered and had a view of the sea and beach although it was overrun with ants! Francis, Jo, Sarah and Sam were also here so the boys hired rather dodgy boats to try their hand at fishing while us girls sat on the beach dreaming of how we were going to cook the fish they caught .... it remained a dream as the boys caught nothing but a suntan. Apparently now is not a great time for fishing...
Debbie: We went out in the Dhow today to supposedly snorkel with Sam and Sarah (NZ couple we met in Malindi who also ended up at Peponi). Sam and Andrew were well armed with fishing gear and the captain soon got the message that they were there to fish! After quite a few hours we realised that there were not many fish in this sea as only Andrew had caught a small funny looking fish. We were so hoping for a big fish as we wanted a fish braai. After we got back to camp we went to the next door camp which is self catering cottages to visit their shop for some bread and we were delighted to see that they sell prawns, calamari and fish by the KG – and cheap! They also sell everything else you could need from butter to bacon and eggs so it looks like we could be staying here for a while!
Day 86 and Day 87 (19/08/08 – 20/08/08) Peponi
Debbie: 2 more days spent at Peponi eating fresh fish, prawns and calamari and doing very little. Life is good!
Day 89 (21/08/08) Peponi to Dar es Salaam
Sunrise Beach Camping
Travelled: 377km
Debbie: We left Peponi today and continued down the coast to Dar es Salaam. The road was good all the way down – tarmac – so we could average 60km per hour! We were told the police trap like crazy here so we watched our speed in villages as we were not in the mood for a hefty fine. In Dar we had to cross from the South bank to the North on a very dodge looking ferry but we made it across in one piece. Sunrise Beach Campsite is quite nice although a lot more busy than what Peponi was as there are a few resorts around. We were admiring the view just now when we spotted 2 very tanned sugar mommy’s and their local boyfriends ...
Day 90 and Day 91 (22/08/08 – 23/08/08)
Sunrise Beach Camping
Debbie: We spent 2 days in Dar stocking up on supplies and getting some snorkelling gear. When we were not in the city we were on Sunrise Beach looking at the sights which got funnier after each beer. We tried to find the rugby (RSA vrs Auzzies) as Sam and Sarah were keen for some friendly rivalry but rugby wasn’t a big thing around these parts. Sunrise beach is ok but very noisy with loud and live local music on a Saturday night which plays from sunset to sunrise.
Day 92 and Day 93 (24/08/08 – 25/08/08) Dar es Salaam to Kilwa
Kilwa Sea View Lodge (Camping)
Kilwa Dreams S8 53 53.4 E39 31 05.143 28.7
Travelled: 330km
Debbie: We left Dar and made our way on a relatively good road (only 60km of dirt) down to Kilwa. We were first going to camp on a stunning beach at Kilwa Dreams but the owner wanted us to pay US$15 per person per night for our camp spot, a not so great loo and shower and we didn’t feel it was worth it. We moved onto Kilwa Sea View Lodge where they had a campsite (US5 per person per night) which was sheltered and had a view of the sea and beach although it was overrun with ants! Francis, Jo, Sarah and Sam were also here so the boys hired rather dodgy boats to try their hand at fishing while us girls sat on the beach dreaming of how we were going to cook the fish they caught .... it remained a dream as the boys caught nothing but a suntan. Apparently now is not a great time for fishing...
Day 94 (26/08/08) Kilwa – Lindi – Mtwara
Bush Camp S10 19 08.5 E40 07 08.5
Travelled: 335km
Breakdown day ...
Debbie: The morning started out with lots of teasing as we had to jump start Jo and Francis Land Cruiser (Andrew has put a sticker on our car saying “Land Rover Recovery Vehicle”. We followed the Land Cruiser down the coast stopping at an awesome stop for a quick swim in the sea (S9 44 45.6 E39 43 28.7). About 15min after we got back on the road the fun and games began as we saw our battery light come on and steering went .... water pump AGAIN. Andrew can talk you through the details.... So Jo and Francis had to tow us to Lindi which was luckily only 20km away. We pulled into a gas station which ironically (and again luckily) had a Land Rover spare part shop next to it (S10 00 00.8 E39 42 56.5) which had a new water pump and a great mechanic to fit it in record time (although Andrew could have fitted it himself). I reluctantly had to text the Kiwi’s (Sam and Sarah) as they were an hour or so behind us to say what had happened – while we were jump starting the Land Cruiser I was taking a photo of the goings on when Sam told me (joking) that I should delete the photo otherwise it would be bad karma ... he was so right!!! After our repair was done we decided to head to Mtwara to find somewhere to camp. We couldn’t find anywhere so decided to head out on the Marine Park road and find somewhere to bush camp. For the first time ever on this trip we drove at night which was not at all fun.
Land Rover Details:
A.G Autos S10 00 00.4 E39 42 56.8
Lindi, Tanzania
Tel (023) 2202504
Day 95 and Day 96 (27/08/08 – 28/08/08) Mtwara Marine Park
Beach Bush Camp S10 18.739 E040 23.485
Ruvula Sea Safari Campsite S10 18 19.1 E40 23 43.3
Travelled: 3km
Debbie: Day 95 started out with us being woken up by a police officer. The man who’s land we had camped on was not happy about us being there (although we thought we were in the Marine Park) so he had sent the police to tell us to move on. We asked the police where we could camp (knowing that there was a campsite in the marine park) and he said either at Ruvula Campsite or on the beach. He also explained to us that the beach was “like an ilandi but its not at ilandi”. We went to the Ruvula Campsite but it was US$12 per person per night to camp on sand and have access to water (which Im sure was salt water) so we decided that it was too expensive and went to find a beach bush camp. Just around the corner we found a magnificent spot right on the beach under some palm trees and meters away from an awesome reef to snorkel on. Sam and Sarah joined us later in the day and told us how they had to pay US$12 per person per 24 hours to enter the marine park – something we hadn’t done as the boom was up when we went through the night before. The boys continued their mission to catch fish but despite their efforts we had to buy fish off the locals and had fish braai every night which were delicious. After 2 blissful days we had to move on and make our big trek below Selous Game Park all around to Iringa. We have heard that the road is not so great so it could take us a few days. We waved goodbye to the others as they were all heading into Mozambique (although the ferry they need to cross on has sunk!) and then RSA.
Bush Camp S10 19 08.5 E40 07 08.5
Travelled: 335km
Breakdown day ...
Debbie: The morning started out with lots of teasing as we had to jump start Jo and Francis Land Cruiser (Andrew has put a sticker on our car saying “Land Rover Recovery Vehicle”. We followed the Land Cruiser down the coast stopping at an awesome stop for a quick swim in the sea (S9 44 45.6 E39 43 28.7). About 15min after we got back on the road the fun and games began as we saw our battery light come on and steering went .... water pump AGAIN. Andrew can talk you through the details.... So Jo and Francis had to tow us to Lindi which was luckily only 20km away. We pulled into a gas station which ironically (and again luckily) had a Land Rover spare part shop next to it (S10 00 00.8 E39 42 56.5) which had a new water pump and a great mechanic to fit it in record time (although Andrew could have fitted it himself). I reluctantly had to text the Kiwi’s (Sam and Sarah) as they were an hour or so behind us to say what had happened – while we were jump starting the Land Cruiser I was taking a photo of the goings on when Sam told me (joking) that I should delete the photo otherwise it would be bad karma ... he was so right!!! After our repair was done we decided to head to Mtwara to find somewhere to camp. We couldn’t find anywhere so decided to head out on the Marine Park road and find somewhere to bush camp. For the first time ever on this trip we drove at night which was not at all fun.
Land Rover Details:
A.G Autos S10 00 00.4 E39 42 56.8
Lindi, Tanzania
Tel (023) 2202504
Day 95 and Day 96 (27/08/08 – 28/08/08) Mtwara Marine Park
Beach Bush Camp S10 18.739 E040 23.485
Ruvula Sea Safari Campsite S10 18 19.1 E40 23 43.3
Travelled: 3km
Debbie: Day 95 started out with us being woken up by a police officer. The man who’s land we had camped on was not happy about us being there (although we thought we were in the Marine Park) so he had sent the police to tell us to move on. We asked the police where we could camp (knowing that there was a campsite in the marine park) and he said either at Ruvula Campsite or on the beach. He also explained to us that the beach was “like an ilandi but its not at ilandi”. We went to the Ruvula Campsite but it was US$12 per person per night to camp on sand and have access to water (which Im sure was salt water) so we decided that it was too expensive and went to find a beach bush camp. Just around the corner we found a magnificent spot right on the beach under some palm trees and meters away from an awesome reef to snorkel on. Sam and Sarah joined us later in the day and told us how they had to pay US$12 per person per 24 hours to enter the marine park – something we hadn’t done as the boom was up when we went through the night before. The boys continued their mission to catch fish but despite their efforts we had to buy fish off the locals and had fish braai every night which were delicious. After 2 blissful days we had to move on and make our big trek below Selous Game Park all around to Iringa. We have heard that the road is not so great so it could take us a few days. We waved goodbye to the others as they were all heading into Mozambique (although the ferry they need to cross on has sunk!) and then RSA.
Day 97 and Day 98 (29/08/08 – 30/08/08) Mtwara – Masasi – Songea - Iringa
Songea Safina Hotel S10 40 45.2 E35 38 59.8
Songea Fuel Station S10 40 42.8 E35 38 47.6
Travelled: 751km & 409km
Debbie: We set off early as we wanted to avoid paying the steep park fees for the Marine Park and we were pleased to see the boom was up so we drove right through. We didn’t see a park ranger once so we were not sure what the US$12 per person per 24 hours went towards. The road to Masasi was good tar but from Masasi it turned to OK dirt which then turned into excellent dirt – the best dirt road all tour! We let the pressure out the tyres which meant we could go a bit faster over the bumps and corrugations and were able to travel at a reasonable speed. Along the route we met 2 extremely bored policemen who wanted us to produce papers and receipts for things like the box on our roof etc and after a lot of explaining that we were tourists and our things were personal, not new and bought in the UK they let us go. We decided to push through Songea which meant it was our longest day driving to date. We had a campsite marked on the GPS 30km out of Songea which we soon discovered was no longer so had to camp in the parking lot of the Safina Hotel in town which was SO noisy we didn’t get much sleep. We were up by 7am and on the road which we have been told is tar all the way to Iringa. We spent most of the morning climbing and winding down the “Tanzanian Alps” which made the going slow but once we had reached Njombe it was all straight along huge tea plantations.
Day 99 and Day 100 (31/08/08 – 01/09/08) – Iringa
Old Farm House S8 08 45.8 E35 24 43.3 www.kisolanza.com
Chogela camping 10km from Ruaha Gate S7 50 00.8 E34 54 07.9
Travelled: 155km
Debbie: The Old Farm House (Kizolanza Farm) is a fantastic and charming spot to stop over night or even for a few rest days. Nicky Ghaui (owner) has done a fantastic job in creating a lovely bush spot with decent and clean facilities. Her restaurant is FANTASTIC!! I have never had such divine food before – all of it produced on the farm so it was fresh and very tasty. We had a drink with Jill (Nicky’s sister-in-law and ex Maz family friend) and it was lovely to meet her and hear about the good old Maz days when she was a kid growing up with my folks. She also gave us some good tips on where to get supplies etc. We spent a day here just cleaning the 700km of dirt we had sucked into the car out of the car and Andrew did some mechanical stuff on the engine as we had been on the coast for so long he wanted to make sure rust didn’t get into things. To our surprise Glen, Tandi and their kids arrived – we last said goodbye to them in the Simian Mountains in Ethiopia – so it was really nice to catch up with them and book their front lawn back in Lesotho for a night when we pass by in December. The next day we headed into Iringa for supplies and then out to Ruaha Game Park which is only about 80km from Iringa and on a decent enough gravel road. The Game Park operates on a 24 hour system (such a pain cause you have to plan your entry time so you have enough time to get out on the day you leave!!) so we decided to spent the night outside in a campsite that was 10km from the gate. Chogela was not the greatest campsite but pleasant enough for one night- looks like they are doing it up a bit which should be nice once completed. We are undecided about where we will stay in Ruaha – inside the park or outside at Chogela. Chogela is only US$5 per person per night with warm water and a flush loo, whereas to camp in the park its US$30 per person per night for a site with no ablutions. Nicky from the Farm House told us about some Government Banda’s at the main headquarters in the park which are the same price as camping but you get a bed and water. We have decided to see when we get there. We had bought some T Bone steaks from the Old Farm House which we put on a braai and they were delicious!!
Songea Safina Hotel S10 40 45.2 E35 38 59.8
Songea Fuel Station S10 40 42.8 E35 38 47.6
Travelled: 751km & 409km
Debbie: We set off early as we wanted to avoid paying the steep park fees for the Marine Park and we were pleased to see the boom was up so we drove right through. We didn’t see a park ranger once so we were not sure what the US$12 per person per 24 hours went towards. The road to Masasi was good tar but from Masasi it turned to OK dirt which then turned into excellent dirt – the best dirt road all tour! We let the pressure out the tyres which meant we could go a bit faster over the bumps and corrugations and were able to travel at a reasonable speed. Along the route we met 2 extremely bored policemen who wanted us to produce papers and receipts for things like the box on our roof etc and after a lot of explaining that we were tourists and our things were personal, not new and bought in the UK they let us go. We decided to push through Songea which meant it was our longest day driving to date. We had a campsite marked on the GPS 30km out of Songea which we soon discovered was no longer so had to camp in the parking lot of the Safina Hotel in town which was SO noisy we didn’t get much sleep. We were up by 7am and on the road which we have been told is tar all the way to Iringa. We spent most of the morning climbing and winding down the “Tanzanian Alps” which made the going slow but once we had reached Njombe it was all straight along huge tea plantations.
Day 99 and Day 100 (31/08/08 – 01/09/08) – Iringa
Old Farm House S8 08 45.8 E35 24 43.3 www.kisolanza.com
Chogela camping 10km from Ruaha Gate S7 50 00.8 E34 54 07.9
Travelled: 155km
Debbie: The Old Farm House (Kizolanza Farm) is a fantastic and charming spot to stop over night or even for a few rest days. Nicky Ghaui (owner) has done a fantastic job in creating a lovely bush spot with decent and clean facilities. Her restaurant is FANTASTIC!! I have never had such divine food before – all of it produced on the farm so it was fresh and very tasty. We had a drink with Jill (Nicky’s sister-in-law and ex Maz family friend) and it was lovely to meet her and hear about the good old Maz days when she was a kid growing up with my folks. She also gave us some good tips on where to get supplies etc. We spent a day here just cleaning the 700km of dirt we had sucked into the car out of the car and Andrew did some mechanical stuff on the engine as we had been on the coast for so long he wanted to make sure rust didn’t get into things. To our surprise Glen, Tandi and their kids arrived – we last said goodbye to them in the Simian Mountains in Ethiopia – so it was really nice to catch up with them and book their front lawn back in Lesotho for a night when we pass by in December. The next day we headed into Iringa for supplies and then out to Ruaha Game Park which is only about 80km from Iringa and on a decent enough gravel road. The Game Park operates on a 24 hour system (such a pain cause you have to plan your entry time so you have enough time to get out on the day you leave!!) so we decided to spent the night outside in a campsite that was 10km from the gate. Chogela was not the greatest campsite but pleasant enough for one night- looks like they are doing it up a bit which should be nice once completed. We are undecided about where we will stay in Ruaha – inside the park or outside at Chogela. Chogela is only US$5 per person per night with warm water and a flush loo, whereas to camp in the park its US$30 per person per night for a site with no ablutions. Nicky from the Farm House told us about some Government Banda’s at the main headquarters in the park which are the same price as camping but you get a bed and water. We have decided to see when we get there. We had bought some T Bone steaks from the Old Farm House which we put on a braai and they were delicious!!
Day 101 and Day 102 and Day 103 (02/09/08 – 04/09/08)
Ruaha Main Gate S7 42 47.2 E34 54 07.9
Coffee spot over river S7 39 50.5 E34 57 17.5
Picnic spot S7 34 42.9 E35 01 12.5
Ruaha River Lodge S7 45 52.3 E34 52 23.1
Travelled: 161km, 80km, 162km
Debbie: Day 101. Andrew was gagging to get into the park so we were up and packed by 6am and in record time. We got to the park gate and we had both decided that we didn’t want to drive into the park daily – we wanted to wake up in the park. You don’t get a 12 hour entry ticket so when you leave the park you don’t get any money back on your 24 hour entry ticket – it costs US$20 per person per day and US$40 per day for your vehicle. We went to have a look at the Government Banda’s and they were not great. They were just off the main park compound and looked ok but there were tons of monkeys about and the kitchen / mess area was very dirty. Anyway the Government Banda’s cost US$20 per person per night and included a bed, loo’s and shower and we couldn’t quite figure out how they were cheaper than the campsite that had no facilities so we decided to book a Banda and save US$20 and get a shower. We spent the morning driving around and from the start we liked the park a lot. After being chased by every Elephant in Tsavo I was not looking forward to seeing Elephants again but these ones seemed very placid. It’s very dry here so we saw stax of game along the river. At the Picnic spot we met a ranger and his clients and after speaking to the ranger we discovered that he lived very close to Granny Mouse a few years ago. He is now a guide and is in the park for a season in a luxury tented camp showing clients around – what a nice job! We were delighted when he gave us their left over brunch of bacon and sausages. That afternoon the thought of the Banda’s weighted heavily on our minds – we really were not looking forward to them. We had really really wanted to stay at the Ruaha River Lodge but had left it far too late to book anything on the phone and thus be able to pay on credit cards as we didn’t have enough USD on us to pay cash. We decided to pop in anyway to see the place and at least have a drink .... well we ended up getting a really really good rate – better than what we were originally quoted via an email (pulled the “don’t you have African rates for fellow African’s?” line and we checked in for 3 nights. I think we are now in the off season so the lodge is not full. We raced back to the park headquarters and they very kindly refunded us our money for the Banda’s. We didn’t see the Ruaha Lodge Banda’s or anything before we had checked in and were so excited when we did see them - gee wiz are they divine. Right on the river with a balcony, huge room and bathroom. We spent the late afternoon sitting on our veranda watching a pied kingfisher fishing, water buck coming for a drink, hippo’s wallowing about and baboons putting on a comedy act. SO glad we are here and not in the Government Banda’s!!! The only thing I’m worried about is an Elephant trying to break into Bwana as we have fruit in the car ... I put it all in the fridge so I’m hoping they won’t smell it and that the milk and T Bones will put them off the fruit smell ....
Day 102 was – in NZ Sam’s words – EPIC!! Andrew had us up at sparrow again to do an early morning Leopard hunt. Sadly we didn’t see anything but we did see a beautiful sunrise and some great landscape. We got back to camp at 09.30 and were the last to have breakfast and then retired to our banda and spent the morning on our veranda looking at the game coming to drink. Lunch was at 13.00 and just as we were back from that and picking up our bino’s to go out for a drive we heard some Impala barking like mad. We waited 5 minutes and strike me pink but not 1 but 4 Lions appeared! Needles to say we didn’t leave our veranda seats for the rest of the day as they decided to spend all afternoon in front of us!! We felt like we were in a zoo as we saw: Kudu, Jackal, Lion, Croc’s, Hippo, Elephant, Impala, Water Buck, Zebra, Mongoose, Giraffe, Buffalo, Birds and Baboons – all coming down for a drink right in front of our banda. A herd of about 20 Elephant came down and even chased the Lions. We have the most hilarious neighbours ... they are English and haven’t got a clue about wildlife!! Some Water Buck arrived and he very loudly and confidently announced to the wife that it was “Kudu – Males and Females”. Then he was horrified as he had walked off his veranda because the manager said he could and he saw a “huge” crocodile ... meanwhile it was tiny. Day 103 – Andrew had us out driving for a full 8 hours looking for Leopard. We didn’t spot one but we did see 4 female lion and a few birds endemic to this region.
Animals spotted:
Elephant
Lion
Kudu
Water buck
Impala
Banded Mongoose
Dassies
Grants Gazelle
Monkey’s
Warthog
Giraffe
Zebra
Black Backed Jackal and cubs
Buffalo
Day 104 to Day 109 (05/09/08 – 09/09/08)
Travelled: 189km
Total Trip: 20 012km
Debbie: We left Ruaha early as we had to be out the gates by 08.25 and headed back to Iringa where we stocked up on some fresh supplies from a very nice local market. We then headed back to the Old Farm House (Kisolanza Farm) where we set up camp for a few days. We were tired of driving and packing up our gear and as the Old Farm House was such a nice campsite we would chill out there for a few days. They also had a well stocked bass dam which Rick very kindly let Andrew fish in and he managed to get a nice big Bass. We also got to join the Ghaui family on a Sunday picnic with their friends at the dam.
Ruaha Main Gate S7 42 47.2 E34 54 07.9
Coffee spot over river S7 39 50.5 E34 57 17.5
Picnic spot S7 34 42.9 E35 01 12.5
Ruaha River Lodge S7 45 52.3 E34 52 23.1
Travelled: 161km, 80km, 162km
Debbie: Day 101. Andrew was gagging to get into the park so we were up and packed by 6am and in record time. We got to the park gate and we had both decided that we didn’t want to drive into the park daily – we wanted to wake up in the park. You don’t get a 12 hour entry ticket so when you leave the park you don’t get any money back on your 24 hour entry ticket – it costs US$20 per person per day and US$40 per day for your vehicle. We went to have a look at the Government Banda’s and they were not great. They were just off the main park compound and looked ok but there were tons of monkeys about and the kitchen / mess area was very dirty. Anyway the Government Banda’s cost US$20 per person per night and included a bed, loo’s and shower and we couldn’t quite figure out how they were cheaper than the campsite that had no facilities so we decided to book a Banda and save US$20 and get a shower. We spent the morning driving around and from the start we liked the park a lot. After being chased by every Elephant in Tsavo I was not looking forward to seeing Elephants again but these ones seemed very placid. It’s very dry here so we saw stax of game along the river. At the Picnic spot we met a ranger and his clients and after speaking to the ranger we discovered that he lived very close to Granny Mouse a few years ago. He is now a guide and is in the park for a season in a luxury tented camp showing clients around – what a nice job! We were delighted when he gave us their left over brunch of bacon and sausages. That afternoon the thought of the Banda’s weighted heavily on our minds – we really were not looking forward to them. We had really really wanted to stay at the Ruaha River Lodge but had left it far too late to book anything on the phone and thus be able to pay on credit cards as we didn’t have enough USD on us to pay cash. We decided to pop in anyway to see the place and at least have a drink .... well we ended up getting a really really good rate – better than what we were originally quoted via an email (pulled the “don’t you have African rates for fellow African’s?” line and we checked in for 3 nights. I think we are now in the off season so the lodge is not full. We raced back to the park headquarters and they very kindly refunded us our money for the Banda’s. We didn’t see the Ruaha Lodge Banda’s or anything before we had checked in and were so excited when we did see them - gee wiz are they divine. Right on the river with a balcony, huge room and bathroom. We spent the late afternoon sitting on our veranda watching a pied kingfisher fishing, water buck coming for a drink, hippo’s wallowing about and baboons putting on a comedy act. SO glad we are here and not in the Government Banda’s!!! The only thing I’m worried about is an Elephant trying to break into Bwana as we have fruit in the car ... I put it all in the fridge so I’m hoping they won’t smell it and that the milk and T Bones will put them off the fruit smell ....
Day 102 was – in NZ Sam’s words – EPIC!! Andrew had us up at sparrow again to do an early morning Leopard hunt. Sadly we didn’t see anything but we did see a beautiful sunrise and some great landscape. We got back to camp at 09.30 and were the last to have breakfast and then retired to our banda and spent the morning on our veranda looking at the game coming to drink. Lunch was at 13.00 and just as we were back from that and picking up our bino’s to go out for a drive we heard some Impala barking like mad. We waited 5 minutes and strike me pink but not 1 but 4 Lions appeared! Needles to say we didn’t leave our veranda seats for the rest of the day as they decided to spend all afternoon in front of us!! We felt like we were in a zoo as we saw: Kudu, Jackal, Lion, Croc’s, Hippo, Elephant, Impala, Water Buck, Zebra, Mongoose, Giraffe, Buffalo, Birds and Baboons – all coming down for a drink right in front of our banda. A herd of about 20 Elephant came down and even chased the Lions. We have the most hilarious neighbours ... they are English and haven’t got a clue about wildlife!! Some Water Buck arrived and he very loudly and confidently announced to the wife that it was “Kudu – Males and Females”. Then he was horrified as he had walked off his veranda because the manager said he could and he saw a “huge” crocodile ... meanwhile it was tiny. Day 103 – Andrew had us out driving for a full 8 hours looking for Leopard. We didn’t spot one but we did see 4 female lion and a few birds endemic to this region.
Animals spotted:
Elephant
Lion
Kudu
Water buck
Impala
Banded Mongoose
Dassies
Grants Gazelle
Monkey’s
Warthog
Giraffe
Zebra
Black Backed Jackal and cubs
Buffalo
Day 104 to Day 109 (05/09/08 – 09/09/08)
Travelled: 189km
Total Trip: 20 012km
Debbie: We left Ruaha early as we had to be out the gates by 08.25 and headed back to Iringa where we stocked up on some fresh supplies from a very nice local market. We then headed back to the Old Farm House (Kisolanza Farm) where we set up camp for a few days. We were tired of driving and packing up our gear and as the Old Farm House was such a nice campsite we would chill out there for a few days. They also had a well stocked bass dam which Rick very kindly let Andrew fish in and he managed to get a nice big Bass. We also got to join the Ghaui family on a Sunday picnic with their friends at the dam.
